Module 06
~40 minFast vs. Slow Fashion
Learning Objectives
- Compare the environmental impacts of fast and slow fashion
- Understand the social issues behind fast fashion production
- Identify sustainable fashion alternatives and brands
- Develop strategies for building a more sustainable wardrobe
Fast & Slow Fashion: Understanding Your Wardrobe's Impact
The fashion industry is one of the most resource-intensive sectors on the planet. It produces over 100 billion garments each year, more than double the amount produced in 2000, while the average number of times a garment is worn before being discarded has dropped by 36 percent in the same period. This relentless acceleration of production and consumption has created a system with enormous environmental and human costs.
Fashion accounts for an estimated 10 percent of global carbon emissions, more than international flights and maritime shipping combined. It is the second-largest consumer of water globally and a major source of chemical pollution in waterways. Every year, millions of tonnes of clothing end up in landfills or are incinerated, while the equivalent of one rubbish truck of textiles is burned or buried every second.
But fashion is also deeply personal. What we wear expresses our identity, builds our confidence, and connects us to our communities and cultures. The challenge is not to stop caring about clothing but to find ways of dressing that are satisfying, affordable, and aligned with our values. This module explores the environmental and social impacts of fast fashion, introduces the slow fashion alternative, and provides practical strategies for building a wardrobe that looks good, feels good, and does good.
The Fast Fashion Machine
Fast fashion describes a business model built on speed, volume, and low prices. Major fast fashion brands can move a design from concept to shop floor in as little as two weeks, releasing not just four seasonal collections but up to 52 micro-seasons per year. Ultra-fast fashion brands operating primarily online release thousands of new styles every single day.
The speed is made possible by a combination of globalised supply chains, synthetic materials derived from fossil fuels, and a relentless drive to cut production costs. Polyester, the most widely used textile fibre, is essentially plastic made from petroleum. It is cheap to produce but sheds microplastic fibres with every wash, contributing to the estimated 500,000 tonnes of microplastic fibres that enter the ocean from textile washing each year.
Cotton, the other major fibre, has its own environmental burden. Conventional cotton farming is one of the most pesticide-intensive agricultural activities in the world. Growing enough cotton for a single t-shirt requires approximately 2,700 litres of water, enough for one person to drink for two and a half years.
Dyeing and finishing processes use enormous quantities of water and chemicals, many of them toxic. The textile industry is responsible for approximately 20 percent of global industrial water pollution. In many producing countries, untreated wastewater from dyeing factories is discharged directly into rivers, contaminating drinking water and destroying aquatic ecosystems.
The fast fashion model depends on consumers treating clothing as disposable. Marketing campaigns, social media influencers, and constantly changing trends create a sense of urgency to buy new items and discard barely worn ones. The result is a system that generates massive profits for brands while externalising the environmental and social costs onto communities and ecosystems that can least afford to bear them.
The Human Cost of Fast Fashion
The low prices of fast fashion are subsidised by the labour of garment workers, the vast majority of whom are women, in countries with weak labour protections. The collapse of the Rana Plaza factory in Dhaka, Bangladesh, on 24 April 2013, killed 1,134 workers and injured over 2,500 more. They had been manufacturing clothing for several major Western brands. Workers had reported cracks in the building the day before but were ordered to return to work.
Rana Plaza became a turning point, sparking the Fashion Revolution movement and its annual question: 'Who made my clothes?' Yet a decade later, systemic exploitation persists. Many garment workers earn well below a living wage, work excessive hours in unsafe conditions, and have no access to unions or legal recourse. Child labour remains prevalent in cotton farming and garment production in several countries. Environmental racism compounds these injustices: the most polluting stages of textile production are concentrated in communities of colour in the Global South, where regulations are weaker and enforcement is minimal.
2,700 L
Water needed to produce one cotton T-shirt
WWF, 2023
5.8M tonnes
Textile waste generated annually in the EU
European Environment Agency, 2023
35%
Ocean microplastic pollution from synthetic textile washing
IUCN, 2023
The Slow Fashion Alternative
Slow fashion is not a brand or a trend. It is an approach to clothing that values quality, longevity, and ethical production over speed and disposability. Coined as a counterpoint to fast fashion, the term draws on the slow food movement's emphasis on local, sustainable, and mindful consumption.
At its core, slow fashion means buying less and choosing better. A capsule wardrobe, for example, is a curated collection of versatile, high-quality pieces that can be mixed and matched across seasons. Instead of a wardrobe overflowing with rarely worn items, a capsule approach might consist of 30 to 40 well-chosen garments that cover all occasions and reflect your personal style.
Ethical fashion brands prioritise fair wages, safe working conditions, and transparent supply chains. They tend to use sustainable materials such as organic cotton, linen, hemp, Tencel, and recycled fibres. While individual garments may cost more, the cost per wear is often lower because the items last significantly longer and remain in style beyond a single season.
The second-hand and vintage market has exploded in popularity, driven by both environmental awareness and the appeal of unique, affordable finds. Online platforms, vintage shops, charity stores, and clothing swaps make it easier than ever to give garments a second life. Extending the active life of a garment by just nine months reduces its carbon, water, and waste footprint by approximately 20 to 30 percent.
Mending, altering, and upcycling are core slow fashion skills. Learning to sew on a button, repair a hem, or transform an old shirt into something new extends the life of your clothes and reduces demand for new production. Repair cafes and online communities offer support and inspiration for those new to clothing repair.
The Fashion Revolution movement, born from the Rana Plaza tragedy, encourages consumers to ask brands '#WhoMadeMyClothes' and demand transparency about labour practices and environmental impacts throughout the supply chain.
Vinted: Europe's Second-Hand Fashion Marketplace
Vilnius, LithuaniaVinted, founded in Vilnius, Lithuania, in 2008, has grown into Europe's largest platform for buying and selling second-hand clothing. With over 75 million members across more than a dozen European countries, the platform has transformed how millions of people think about their wardrobes.
The concept is simple: users photograph items they no longer wear, list them with descriptions and prices, and sell directly to other members. The platform charges no seller fees, making it easy for anyone to participate. Buyers get access to an enormous catalogue of affordable, pre-owned clothing, shoes, and accessories.
Vinted's environmental impact is significant. Every garment sold on the platform is one that did not need to be manufactured new. The company estimates that its community has collectively saved millions of tonnes of CO2 emissions by choosing second-hand over new. For sellers, it provides a financial incentive to declutter responsibly rather than discarding unwanted clothing.
The platform has also shifted cultural attitudes, particularly among younger Europeans who have embraced second-hand shopping not as a compromise but as a lifestyle choice. Vinted has helped normalise the idea that pre-owned clothing is desirable, affordable, and environmentally responsible. The success of the platform demonstrates the commercial viability of circular fashion models and the appetite among European consumers for alternatives to the fast fashion cycle.
6 Tips for Building a Sustainable Wardrobe
- 1
Audit your wardrobe before buying anything new. Take stock of what you already own, identify gaps, and plan purchases based on actual needs rather than impulse or trends.
- 2
Adopt the cost-per-wear mindset. A 100-euro coat worn 200 times costs 50 cents per wear, while a 20-euro coat worn 5 times costs 4 euros per wear. Quality and durability often provide better value.
- 3
Choose natural, organic, or recycled fibres when buying new. Look for organic cotton, linen, hemp, Tencel, or recycled polyester. Avoid conventional synthetics where possible, and use a microfibre-catching laundry bag to reduce microplastic shedding.
- 4
Explore second-hand options first. Check platforms like Vinted, visit charity shops and vintage stores, and attend clothing swap events in your community before buying new garments.
- 5
Learn basic clothing care and repair. Washing at lower temperatures, air drying, proper storage, and simple mending extend the life of your clothes significantly. Many online tutorials teach basic sewing skills.
- 6
Support transparent, ethical brands. Look for brands that publish their supply chain information, pay living wages, and use sustainable materials. The Fashion Transparency Index rates major brands on their disclosure practices.
External Resources
Threads - Fast Fashion Game
game
